improved high power led bike head light with integrated heat sink
For more information on the earlier versions, see the original high power LED bike headlights with integrated radiator instructions.
The latest incarnation uses a cheaper, more fully functional drive circuit
Waterproof switch, waterproof connector, more elegant installation solution, stronger waterproof housing to make your white color brighter.
The material list of this light is wider than the previous incarnation, but the result is an improved kit. Housing: 1x ~1.
25 \"3/4\" copper pipe 1x ~ 1 \"long section 3/4\" copper pipe coupling 2 × 3/4 \"pipe cap 1x ~ 4 \"segment 12GA solid copper wire gear silver soldering electronics: 1x cable 1x waterproof cable joint 1x 3-with Trail Tech Connector-
1206 or 805 surface mount size 1x2 ohm resistor for mode boost constant current driver in 1x LiFePo 6.
4V battery pack Misc line for connecting driver to LED device for electronic welding lamp engine: 1x Rebel Endor star 3-
Phoenix Red Star Moon or 1x Cree XPG-
1x lens for Endor 3
Hot epoxy bracket: 1x5/8 \"x 6\" Velcro face housing well is the key to the waterproof and enjoyable final product.
Don\'t be afraid of drip soldering, leave a file mark, otherwise it will personalize your light.
Remember, the bones heal, the chickens dig scars, the United States is the world\'s highest doctor and courage.
I don\'t know what it has to do with it, but I\'m going crazy.
Similar to the previous lighting item, you need to trim the pipe cap and drill holes on it to install and connect the LED star.
Leave a Light shoulder on the pip cap outside the highlight lens to protect it from damage, 2mm is OK.
The length of the 3/4 \"pipe and coupler section is not important.
You need to extend the smaller 3/4 \"pipe part from the coupler, enough epoxy on the back cover, about 1/4\" is OK.
Take a piece of bare 12GA solid copper wire and bend it with your hands, feet and teeth or a handy jewelry clamp as shown.
This wire will be used as a stand.
Adjust the size according to the handle on the app.
Test everything before welding.
Then burrs, sanding, cleaning and cleaning the LED pipe cap, coupler part, internal 3/4 \"pipe part and wire splints.
When you heat and Weld, use the clip to secure the pipe cap and other tubes in the appropriate position.
Balance the splint on the top and weld it while the rest is still hot.
The back cover must be the last one to continue working and cannot be welded because there are sensitive electronics on board at this time.
You will want to drill holes in the rear pipe cap to keep the waterproof cable gland pressed and trim the length of the pipe cap to match the leak volume pipe you left in the 3/4 \"section.
Depending on the size of the cable gland nut, you may need to trim the nut or leave more pipe caps for installation.
The drive circuit I use for this lamp is much cheaper and more functional than Buck Parker.
The disadvantage is that the quality made in China is very poor.
In addition, Chinese manufacturers, polished identification marks. DX of integrated circuits on circuit boards (
I don\'t think your name is in vain Oh holy and almighty DX).
I don\'t know why they\'re making trouble.
I think they think that if they can remove the IC manufacturer\'s application example circuit from the datasheet, then someone else can do the same if they can read the IC mark. But wait!
They subtly polish the marks, so you have to go through dozens of data sheets to identify their circuits.
They \'ve obviously been to B-
School and have heard of the word \"barriers to entry.
OK, say I understand that, so you don\'t need the original scream.
I mean, something with a molecular structure.
The driver is based on FP5138 (boost driver.
The three modes on the drive are specified as High 800 mA, Low 200 mA, and 400 mA strobe.
Since the \"spec\" of products like DX is not very tight and seems to contradict directly with the useful formula provided by the IC manufacturer, I continue to measure the current myself.
The measured current is 1200 mA high and 250 mA low, and the Flash is only high in working cycle.
Your mileage and circuit modifications may vary.
The current is set through a resistor that is hard to reach, so our task is to separate the two circular PCBs, exchange the resistors, and then weld the two boards together.
The smaller top PCB is the drive board and the larger bottom PCB is the micro controller, which sets the resistance used through some transistors.
The resistance we are looking for has two piles on my board, one is 0. 820 Ohm 4.
7 ohms, give 0. 7 Ohms.
This is high resistance.
The low resistance is 2 ohms.
I chose 500 mA high and 250 mA low.
This is to increase the life of the battery pack and reduce the thermal stress on the assembly.
To do this, delete 0. 820 Ohm and 4.
The 7 ohm resistor is stacked and replaced with a 2 ohm resistor.
Look at the picture.
Weld the two plates together and you\'re done.
Weld the wires of the LED to the LED pad, pass them through the holes on the LED tube cover, and weld them to the drive circuit.
You will want to use a rather thin wire so that you can wrap up the excess wire and insert it into the cavity.
After the LED is welded, connect the battery to the drive circuit using some jumpers and perform a simple test to ensure that the LED is lit as required.
To switch mode on the drive, you need to cycle the power supply.
Make sure everything is OK before tightening everything.
Under all normal conditions, use a hot epoxy resin to stick the wall frame to the bottom of the pipe cap.
Since epoxy is also conductive, be sure not to put it on the top pad.
After curing, fix the lens epoxy resin to the top of the LED star.
Don\'t use a conductive epoxy in case it gets where you don\'t want it.
I use JB Weld in these cases.
When the lens is cured in place, take some silicone sealant and seal the lip of the lens on the tube cap to prevent water from entering the LED.
Try not to apply anything on the surface of the lens, if you do, wipe it clean before it heals.
Install the waterproof cable gland on the rear tube cap, pass the cable through the gland and tighten all the parts.
The press cover should have O-
Ring sealed on the housing, but if you lose it, use some silicone to seal it during assembly.
Weld the loose end of the wire to the appropriate pad on the back of the drive circuit.
Next, connect the drive circuit, wrap it with electrical tape, and fill it into the shell with silicone adhesive.
Let the silicone solidify before sticking to the rear tube cap.
Now is a good time to do another system test before sealing.
Using all the features, mix some hot epoxy and glue on the rear tube cap to seal your lights forever.
To connect velcro, measure your velcro strapping and cut to the desired length.
The idea is that one end of velcro will be permanently attached to the lamp at the wire clip, and the other end will wrap around the handlebar to the other part of the wire clip, and re-cycle to the latch
Get everything ready and use some hot glue to blend one end of velcro at one end of the wire splints. See pictures.
With the battery of your choice (
A lifpo battery linked in BOM)
You can go.
I hope the previous content will help those who want to make better lights than are common on the market today.
I am adjusting this design to accommodate the latest high efficiency LEDs, which promises to improve performance by about 20% more. Good times.
Please feel free to contact me to ask questions or post them to the discussion below.
Some people have also been looking for me and they don\'t want to go and make this kind of lamp, hopefully they can buy a full or incomplete, a kit.
Depending on the current person and my bandwidth, I alternately force them or whip them when they shake their heads.
For those with similar ideas, please feel free to contact me even though my price is too high.